Up the Main/Rhine: Restoration

Marksburg Castle, a rare, preserved medieval castle in Germany. Kajmeister photo.

What is our responsibility to the past? Must we remember things as they were, and, if we must, how and why?

Yesterday, we visited the “last remaining medieval castle” in Germany. But other cities and other castles had been destroyed and rebuilt. Art had been hidden in bunkers, then replaced with missing bits filled in. The famous castles along the Rhine were mostly built after 1850, and you can tell the medieval English style chosen for design from the medieval German style chosen, by 19th century architects. The Germans have found many ways to embrace their past. How do they approach their history, and can we learn from it?

Recreating What Was

As we walked around Marksburg castle, a historical site near Koblenz on the Rhine in western Germany, our guide kept emphasizing that these were the original timbers, the authentic tapestries, the slippery stone steps that prevented attack, which have never been improved in nearly a thousand years. Imagine storming this medieval castle! Imagine the duke sleeping upright in the tiny bed or using the stone toilet in the Great Hall while the door was open!

Tourist sites emphasize these ideas of real, authentic, preserved, or original. But much of what we’ve seen in Germany had decayed or had been destroyed and was decidedly not original. Does it matter? Germany makes the argument repeatedly that it does not matter whether it is authentic or original. What matters is the memory.

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Up the Danube: Small Town Bavarian Charm (& Sausages)

One of dozens of picturesque towns in the Wachau Valley. Kajmeister photo.

Can there be too many quaint Austrian and German villages along the Danube, Main, and Rhine? In Bamberg today, I’m taking a day off from the bus + walking circuit to recap our previous few days in Melk, Passau, and Regensburg.

There is this self-destructive cycle of tourism in which we find ourselves. We want to SEE, but, when we do, we quickly tire of the same ol’ village. *yawn* another hand-painted baroque ceiling. Oh, NOT another castle! How many bloody things did these people build? (A: one in every town, of course). Last night, a fellow traveler said it was the same thing in Egypt–desperate to go, then three days in, NOT another tomb and 5000-year-old hieroglyphics!

I will try not to bite the hand that feeds me too much today, since I am a tourist, and I am here to appreciate these exquisite German villages.

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Up the Danube: Picture Perfect Vienna

The grounds of Vienna gardens, from inside the Vienna Boys’ Choir hall. Kajmeister photo.

Right after Budapest on this trip up the rivers, we arrived smash into Vienna: four days, three world capitals. I’d have to say Vienna in comparison was clean, stylish, full of music and ornate buildings, and a bit smug about its cleanliness, music, and style. But probably justified.

Before proceeding on to picture-perfect Vienna, I want to note that I’m writing these blogs on my tablet with a quaint little keyboard and lovely little tablet-mouse. The ship has free wi-fi, which is a blessing. However, WordPress software on a tablet  is very glitchy. It constantly stops when I am typing, like right now. It’s very confusing, because sometimes it immediately does what it’s supposed to, and other times won’t respond for a few minutes, then hops around to random paragraphs. So I must apologize for all the typos and to KK who is tired of hearing me whine about it. Even now, it’s making a vein throb in my head , waiting for it actually s-h-o-w what I type.

Anyway, I also note that just before Vienna, we went through our first lock on the Danube, where you sail into the little garage and the water goes up. The first was riveting to watch, but even within the next two days, we’d done about 12 of these, so they got less interesting quickly. Dan, the boat’s cruise director, joked that a lady was awakened by “Earthquakes!” which was only the ship gently banging a side in the lock. Except that, Dan, they do feel like earthquakes if you’re from California where you have experienced many earthquakes. 

Floating down the Danube, there is green river, lots of bends, bird sanctuaries–around every corner is yet another castle or church or picturesque town. Hence, the sighting of big buildings was a bit exciting. Ah, Vienna! (never mind the Hard Rock cafes and Happyland and clogged traffic like any other tourist area of a big city) Vienna! Former capital of the empire, full of free water and health care, and so many statues of Mozart.

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